Prologue

I first visited the Torres Del Paine National Park in Chilean Patagonia in December 2014. I had intended to complete the ‘O’ circuit then until a bad flu and a foot injury derailed those plans. I did manage to visit the 2 most popular attractions in the park – the base of the towers and the French valley lookout. Still, I felt that was little consolation for my inability to complete the circuit. Through the years, it has always been in the back of my mind to return one day to finish what I started.

Since I have now left my job to travel for a few months, this was the perfect time to return to Patagonia. March is also purported to have more pleasant weather than December i.e. less wind and rain. This post chronicles my 8 days on the circuit – the highs and lows and my thoughts for the day – in hopes that my experience would be useful background information to some planning a trip to this amazing park.

Tip: Whatever you thought of the wind in Patagonia, you thought less. Pay to stay and eat in the Refugios. A lot of people carry all their gear and food (for 8 days!) and camp, either to save costs or due to a misplaced optimism that they will be able to do it without too much pain (or, as I found out later, simply ignorance that accommodation and food are available the whole way). Many start regretting it very soon. It’s ok to camp in the wilderness or where there are few facilities; it’s miserable to camp beside a warm place (i.e. the Refugios). It’s also very frustrating to pitch your tent when the wind is gusting, which it almost always does in the afternoon. Be smart – spend the money to do the trek ‘luxuriously’.

Day 1 Central to Camp Seron

Today was a warm up day. I went up and down a hill (+200/-200m) slipping and sliding on mud a lot of the time. I also gave up trying to keep my shoes dry. Very happy I decided to go with non waterproof shoes so they dry fast. Reached camp at 2pm. I paid to rent a tent, sleeping bag and pad on site (there was no Refugio at Camp Seron). I was rather impressed with the facilities. The tent was so spacious I could half stand in it.

The sleeping bag and pad (more like mattress) were both clean, thick and comfortable. The weather today was ridiculously good. Blue skies and a gentle breeze. Certainly a big departure from my first visit 4 years ago when it was overcast and blowing snow. Now if only the weather will stay this way for the rest of the trip…

Day 2 – Camp Seron to Refugio Dickson

I woke up to find out that a rodent had been chewing on the cork of my hiking poles in the night! I never thought that my poles would be unsafe in the tent vestibule. Alas, this is another battle scar on my gear, which make them (and therefore me) look bad-ass!

I started hiking at 8am and seemed to be the first one on the trail. Why does everyone else seem so unhurried? I didn’t get it. The sun’s fully up, you’ve had your breakfast, it’s time to move! The day started overcast but the sun came out later at around noon. At least there was no rain! The trail was flat-ish initially then started climbing.

I caught up to another hiker at the start of the steepest section. He was carrying a lot more stuff than I and so was naturally slower. The descent was steeper than expected – and I thought this was an easy (but Iong) day! Soon I arrived at the ranger station and was the first one to sign the trail register for the day – whoopee! I think this is the first time that has ever happened. According to the ranger, Refugio Dickson was only an easy 9 km away. After a short break, away I went.

The trail was largely unremarkable until about 2km from the Refugio when I saw what looked like fresh puma poop in the middle of the trail. Uh-oh. I’m alone and the first person to walk this section of the trail today – the stuff horror movies are made of. I suddenly became very aware of my surroundings. To my surprise, I was now surrounded on both sides by tall grass – the perfect hideout for a puma stalking its prey. I tried hard to remember all the advice I read about what to do if I encounter a puma. Am I supposed to stand still, look big or turn and run (ok, I know the last one is definitely wrong!). I hiked as fast as I could to get out of that area. In about 30 minutes I crested a hill and there lay in the valley below, Refugio Dickson. Yay I’ve arrived!

Still the first one and clocking in at 5.5 hours instead of the 6 hours indicated to get there from Seron. Today I will not be a puma’s lunch and dinner and live another day to tell the tale.

Day 3 – Refugio Dickson to Camp Perros

Today was a relatively easy day of climbing through the forest for about 3 hours. The challenge came in the last 30 minutes or so on a rocky, exposed path.

I arrived at camp in 3 hours 45 minutes, shaving off 45 minutes the recommended time. I was the second one to sign the trail register today – darn it I lost my streak! Tomorrow is the big push up John Gardner Pass and an even bigger descent of over 1000m all the way to Refugio Grey. I pray my knees will hold up and that I make it to Grey before nightfall. Now time for some R&R for the rest of the day…

Day 4 – Camp Perros to Refugio Grey

I woke up at 5.15 today, intending to start walking at 6.30. I finally started at 6.35 – quite on schedule! I have been obsessing over today’s weather forecast. I need it to be good because I’ve been reading these blogs talking about white out conditions at the pass (and I have personally experienced white out conditions on a pass, at 5000m in the Himalayas no less. I would like to avoid another encounter if possible). Before I left, I looked up at the sky and it was blanketed with stars. ‘Good’, I thought, ‘at least there will be no rain or snow. Please hold off on the wind gusts too’.

The first hour or so was spent side-stepping mud. Thankfully the weather has been dry for a few days. If it had been raining, we would be trudging in mud that was ankle-deep, if not more. After an hour or so, the pass came into view.

By this time, the sun had risen and there was not a cloud in the sky. What good fortune! After a hard slog, I finally reached the top of the pass.

The view of the South Patagonian Icefield was magnificent but it was apparent that there was a better viewpoint about 5 minutes downhill.

I have no idea why most people decided to chill at the top while there were only a handful of people at that viewpoint. I slowly made my way down.

When I got to the viewpoint, even the handful of people there previously have left so I was all alone, with the whole place to myself. I sat down and pulled out a snack. As I snacked, I started to smile and then laugh and then mumbled ‘praise the Lord!’. All that time I spent worrying about life-threatening conditions descending this pass and here I was sitting in front of the most incredible view under clear blue skies and there was barely a breeze.

This day I had to make it all the way to Refugio Grey, 22km in total and having skipped Camp Paso in my determination to glamp it the whole way (there are no facilities at Paso). So after 10 minutes or so of staring at the view in awe, I started making my way down. The way down was not particularly steep, especially as the park did a great job of cutting in steps and placing ladders wherever the trail might have been dodgy. But it was long, really long. My knees hated me today.

After 2 hours, I got to Camp Paso. It was a small place with a drop toilet and lots of mosquitoes. Glad I decided not to stay and to go all the way to Grey. After a 45 minute break, I started hiking towards Grey. The trail was generally pleasant and I especially liked hiking through a big stretch of forest. On the way, I crossed 3 long bridges which were rather unnerving but I managed to keep it together.

I arrived at Refugio Grey at 3.45pm – a lot earlier than I expected! All in all, except for some sections when my knees screamed for me to stop, today was Type 1 fun and will be recorded in my books as one of my best days of hiking.

Note: The Grey glacier (part of the South Patagonian Icefield) can be seen for much of the way down. There is no need to stay too long at the pass to soak it all up. Keep walking to get out of the exposed areas as soon as possible. New perspectives of the glacier will reveal themselves.

Day 5 – Refugio Grey to Refugio Paine Grande

Refugio Grey was a dream. A comfortable bed with a luxurious comforter – exactly what I needed. The bar also served many types of cocktails in addition to the usual beer and wine. I took the liberty to have a Pisco Sour. The night wasn’t so great. My roommate mumbled in his sleep and I also dreamt that I was drowning (gasp!), which woke me up in shock.

I went kayaking to the Grey glacier today. The wind gusts were still fairly strong, which delayed our departure and worried me a little bit. I still had to hike to Paine Grande in the afternoon! I was reluctant to be too worn out before the hike and considered bailing but decided to go ahead anyway. We finally launched the kayaks at about 10am and the first few minutes on the water were super windy, which made me want to turn back immediately. How am I going to survive this for 2 hours?? Aaahhhh! Thankfully the wind died down eventually. The icebergs floating in the bay glowed blue and looked gorgeous but they were also an obvious visual indication of the glacier receding faster than usual due to climate change. It is beauty that I would rather not see.

Back on land, I took a quick lunch of beans, rice and potatoes (yay carbs!) at Refugio Grey before hiking on. Fueled by all the carbs, I hiked fast. The trail climbed a hill and that was when the wind picked up. Soon it began gusting consistently, pushing me forward and sideways. Some people enjoy being tossed about by the wind. I do not. The wind makes me feel very uncomfortable and makes me innately want to hike on and not linger for more than a moment. For that reason also, I hiked even faster and got to Refugio Paine Grande in under 3 hours without a snack break. This night, I had a couple of drinks with mates from the O circuit.

We are now firmly on the ‘W’ part of the trek and have different schedules going forward so likely wouldn’t see each other again. The night ended with 3 of us standing outside in the cold and alcohol haze, having a good conversation (which I can’t remember much of due to said alcohol haze) and appreciating the Milky Way.

Day 6 – Refugio Paine Grande to Camp Los Cuernos

I woke up with a mild hangover from last night. I took my time preparing and finally started walking at 9.30am.

Most people staying at Paine Grande would aim to hike to the Britannico lookout today and then either camp at Camps Italiano or Valley Frances or return to Paine Grande. I was hiking on to Camp Los Cuernos with no intention to go to the lookout. I had already gone to the first lookout the last time I visited the park and thought the view was underwhelming for the effort it took to get up the rocky trail. Also, there were hoards of people going to the lookout. Walking from Paine Grande to Italiano, I was bothered by the crowds on the trail, after being spoiled by the relative solitude on the ‘O’. I hung back and let people pass whenever I heard someone coming up behind me. At Italiano, I turned right to get on the trail to Los Cuernos and it was immediately a lot quieter as by this time, many people were on the trail to the lookout.

The all-around view on this section of the trail was spectacular, comprising of the view of the lake on one side, the hanging glacier on another and the Cuernos del Paine on the third.

In fact, it was almost the same view that one would see at the lookout! The only difference being that, at the lookout, one would be closer to the hanging glacier with a chance to witness some avalanches. That, to me, is certainly not worth the extra effort to get to and from the lookout and I would have been quite pissed with myself if I had gone.

The trail became rather annoying in the last hour or so, winding through a rocky beach. I reached Camp Los Cuernos slightly after 2pm. It’s a pretty campsite by the lake. WiFi is relatively fast and there are plenty of people here – another reminder that I am well and truly back in civilization.

Day 7 – Camp Los Cuernos to Refugio Central

Today is the ultimate lazy day. I only had to walk for about 3.5 hours to Refugio Central. If I so wish, I could bus back into Puerto Natales today. But there is one more objective left to achieve on this trip and that is to see the Torres Del Paine (i.e. the towers) themselves for the second time! Unlike the French Valley lookout (which I think is overrated), I think the towers are definitely worth seeing again.

The trail out of camp started climbing immediately. In true relaxing fashion, I deliberately walked slowly. Following the initial climb, the trail pretty much undulated all the way to about 45 minutes from the Refugio when it became mostly flat.

On one of the descents, I slipped and my left knee bent and hit the trail with my full body weight on it. Ouch! Who falls like that? I was expecting any falls to be on my butt where there is much more cushion. Luckily nothing broke – just a knee scrape. Phew. Still hurts though so after the fall I walked even slower, reaching the Refugio at about half past noon. Now the temptation to bus back to Puerto Natales today is even greater but I can’t let a knee scrape get me down. Bright sunshine is in the weather forecast for tomorrow so it would be an ideal time to see the towers. The celebratory dinner back in town would have to wait.

Day 8 – Refugio Central to Puerto Natales

I woke up to my knees hurting. In fact, I felt sore through the night. A bruise over my left knee cap is also starting to show. I suppose this is more than a mere knee scrape. I could still walk and with some effort, I am confident of making it to the base of the towers and then to Chileno to spend the night. But will I enjoy it? Is it worth it? Would this impact my upcoming backpacking trip in Bariloche? Those are the questions.

I decided not to answer them till after breakfast. The breakfast room at Refugio Central provides a clear view of the top of the towers. As dawn broke over the towers, I went out and stood in the cold with my camera. It was the perfect sunrise – this was the morning to be at the base of the towers. Then a fox appeared, with its bushy tail set against the backdrop of the glowing towers.

It all seemed so complete and at that time, I just knew, it was enough and it was time to leave.

What I do remember from the time I hiked to the base of the towers in December 2014 was that the trail ascends the whole way. Past Refugio Chileno, you would enter a forest and remain there for a bit. Once you exit the forest, it’s a steep and rocky path I didn’t like at all that would lead you all the way to the base of the towers. Apparently the entire trail from the welcome centre to the base of the towers is also now seriously damaged from overuse and the park is building a new trail.

Base of the towers, December 2014

Epilogue

In two visits, I have now pretty much seen the park in its entirety. I have been really fortunate with the weather this time around – 8 days with not a drop of rain! I don’t think the hike would have been as enjoyable in bad weather. Still, I would definitely recommend the ‘O’ circuit over the ‘W’ for those who crave appreciation of nature in relative solitude. To those planning a trip to the park – I wish you ‘happy trails!’.